The Neapolitan Pizza: A Scientific Guide About the Artisanal Process

I finally found it! After a long search, I discovered a book that delves into the fascinating science behind Neapolitan pizza. I truly believe that understanding the scientific principles behind a craft is the key to achieving outstanding results consistently. And guess what? This book is all about that!

The Neapolitan Pizza: A Scientific Guide About the Artisanal Process by Enzo Coccia is a comprehensive and detailed exploration of the art and science behind making authentic Neapolitan pizza. Coccia, a renowned pizzaiolo, breaks down each aspect of the pizza-making process, offering both practical and scientific insights.

In this article, I will cover the key concepts discussed in the book while keeping it short and simple. In future articles, I will delve deeper into more specific concepts of dough making, such as gluten formation, proteins, enzymes, etc.

Contents

1. Dough Preparation

2. Fermentation Process

3. Stretching and Shaping Techniques

4. Toppings and Ingredients

5. Baking Process

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1. Dough Preparation

   Delves into the choice of flour, water, salt, and yeast, explaining their roles in achieving the perfect texture. It discusses dough hydration, fermentation, and how temperature impacts the dough's development.

• Ingredient Selection

  • Flour: Use a high-protein, finely milled 00 flour, which is ideal for the long fermentation process and yields a soft, elastic dough.

  • Water: Clean, mineral-free water is preferred. The temperature should be controlled to ensure proper fermentation (usually around 20-25°C).

  • Salt: Enhances flavor and strengthens gluten. Fine sea salt is often recommended.

  • Yeast: Fresh or active dry yeast is used in minimal quantities to create a slow, controlled fermentation.

• Hydration Level

  • The ratio of water to flour (hydration) is essential for the dough’s texture. Neapolitan pizza typically has a hydration level between 60-70%, resulting in a dough that is soft and elastic, with a light and airy crumb after baking.

  • Modern version of the Neapolitan pizza go as high as 80% to achieve higher aeration of the crust and better appearance, this is difficult to achieve without a good quality stand mixer.

• Mixing and Kneading

  • Mixing: Combine the ingredients slowly to avoid overheating and to allow gluten development. This should be done by hand or with a low-speed mixer.

  • Kneading: The dough is kneaded until smooth and elastic, ensuring that gluten strands form properly. This process usually takes about 15-20 minutes.

  • Folding: Folding is a great alternative to kneading as it involves minimum manipulation of the dough.

• Fermentation

  • Initial Rise: The dough rests at room temperature for about 2 hours for the initial bulk fermentation, allowing the yeast to start fermenting the sugars and developing flavor.

  • Cold Fermentation: The dough is then placed in the refrigerator (usually for 8-24 hours). This slow, cold fermentation enhances flavor and texture, as the yeast and enzymes break down complex starches.

• Dough Balling

  • After the initial bulk fermentation, the dough is divided into smaller portions (typically 180-250 grams) and formed into smooth, tight dough balls. This step ensures even shaping and baking later on.

• Final Proofing

  • Before baking, the dough is brought back to room temperature and rests for a final proofing period of about 2 hours. This step allows the yeast to reactivate and produce additional carbon dioxide, ensuring a light, airy crust when baked.

• Temperature Control

  • Maintaining the right temperatures during mixing, fermentation, and proofing is essential for achieving the proper rise and flavor. Warm temperatures accelerate the process, while cold slows it down for better flavor development.

    
    

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2. Fermentation Process

   Highlights the importance of proper fermentation techniques, including the use of a pre-ferment (such as biga or poolish), and explores the enzymatic and microbial activities that occur during this phase.

• Yeast Activity

  • Yeast, a living organism, consumes sugars in the dough, producing carbon dioxide and alcohol as byproducts. This process causes the dough to rise, forming air pockets that contribute to the light, airy texture of the crust.

  • The small amount of yeast used in Neapolitan pizza dough allows for a slow fermentation, which leads to better flavor and digestibility.

• Enzymatic Reactions

  • Enzymes in the flour, such as amylase, break down complex starches into simpler sugars that the yeast can consume. This reaction is crucial for both flavor development and yeast activity.

  • Other enzymes, like proteases, break down proteins in the dough, improving its extensibility and making it easier to shape later.

• Controlled Fermentation

  • Neapolitan pizza dough undergoes two main fermentation phases:

    • Bulk Fermentation: This initial rise occurs at room temperature for a few hours (usually 2-4). It allows the yeast to become active and begin the fermentation process.

    • Cold Fermentation: The dough is then placed in the refrigerator for 8-24 hours. This slow, cold fermentation enhances flavor by allowing complex flavor compounds to develop over time. It also helps to create a more manageable, elastic dough.

• Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB) Contribution

  • Naturally present lactic acid bacteria (LAB) may also contribute to the fermentation process, producing lactic acid and other organic acids that add depth to the flavor and help regulate the pH, improving dough stability and texture.

• Temperature and Time Management

  • Controlling the temperature and duration of each fermentation stage is critical. Higher temperatures speed up the process but can result in a less developed flavor. Lower temperatures (e.g., during cold fermentation) slow down the process, promoting the development of more complex flavors and enhancing dough structure.

    
    

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3. Stretching and Shaping Techniques

   Explains the correct way to stretch and shape the dough to preserve its airy texture while maintaining the thin crust that characterizes Neapolitan pizza.

• Preparation

  • The dough should be at room temperature and well-rested before stretching. This ensures that it is relaxed and easy to work with, reducing the risk of tearing and allowing for better expansion during baking.

• Hand-Stretching Technique

  • Neapolitan pizza dough is always stretched by hand, not with a rolling pin, to maintain the airy texture and avoid flattening the dough. The technique preserves the gas bubbles formed during fermentation, which are essential for creating the characteristic airy crust.

  • The pizzaiolo starts by pressing the center of the dough ball with their fingertips, gradually pushing the air towards the edges to form the cornicione (the thicker outer crust).

  • The dough is then lifted and rotated between the hands, allowing gravity to help stretch it further while maintaining an even thickness.

• Creating the Cornicione (Crust)

  • The edges of the dough are left thicker to form the cornicione. This part of the crust becomes airy and puffy during baking, providing the classic texture of Neapolitan pizza. Care is taken not to press or deflate this area during stretching.

• Ensuring Uniform Thickness

  • The goal is to create a base that is thin in the center and gradually thicker towards the edges. This even thickness ensures that the pizza cooks evenly and maintains the balance between a crispy bottom and a soft, airy texture.

• Avoiding Overstretching

  • The dough should be handled delicately to avoid overstretching, which can cause tears or an uneven shape. Experienced pizzaiolos use minimal hand pressure, letting the dough’s elasticity guide the process.

• Speed and Precision

  • Speed is important to prevent the dough from sticking to the surface or drying out. Pizzaiolos work quickly and efficiently, using smooth, consistent movements to achieve the desired shape within seconds.

    
    

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4. Toppings and Ingredients

   Emphasizes the importance of high-quality, traditional ingredients like San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. He also explains how to properly layer and balance these toppings to achieve an authentic flavor profile.

• Applying Toppings

  • The toppings are applied sparingly to maintain the balance between the thin dough and the ingredients. Overloading the pizza can weigh down the dough, affecting its texture and bake.

  • The tomato sauce should be spread thinly over the dough, leaving the cornicione (crust) exposed to rise and puff up.

  • The mozzarella is scattered in small pieces to allow even melting without overwhelming the pizza.

  • Olive oil is drizzled before baking, while fresh basil is added afterward for maximum flavor and freshness.

• Balancing Flavors and Textures

  • The ingredients are carefully balanced to create a harmonious mix of flavors: the sweet acidity of tomatoes, the creaminess of mozzarella, the freshness of basil, and the richness of olive oil.

  • Minimal and high-quality toppings allow the flavor of the dough to shine through, maintaining the pizza’s light, airy character.

    
    

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5. Baking Process

   Provides insights into the use of wood-fired ovens, detailing optimal temperatures and baking times to achieve the perfect crust and texture.

• Wood-Fired Oven Characteristics

  • Authentic Neapolitan pizza requires a wood-fired oven that reaches temperatures of 430-485°C (800-900°F). These high temperatures cook the pizza quickly (in about 60-90 seconds), creating a crisp, charred exterior while keeping the center soft and tender.

  • While recent studies have shown that the baking time might be too low to bring out the smoky aromas from the compounds, the wood is supposed to impart a subtle smoky flavor to the pizza, enhancing its traditional taste.

• Preparing the Oven

  • The oven must be preheated and maintained at the proper temperature throughout the baking process. Pizzaiolos use specific wood types (e.g., oak or beech) to create the ideal heat and burn rate.

  • The pizza is placed directly on the oven floor, where the heat transfers instantly to the dough, causing the crust to puff up and blister.

• Monitoring the Bake

  • The pizzaiolo closely monitors the pizza, rotating it frequently to ensure an even bake and prevent burning. The crust should char lightly, with leopard-like spots, while the center remains soft and slightly moist.

  • The cheese should melt and bubble without browning too much, maintaining its creamy consistency, while the tomato sauce stays bright and fresh.

• Achieving the Perfect Texture

  • The high temperature and quick bake time create the signature Neapolitan crust: airy and puffy around the edges (cornicione) with a slight char, and thin, yet soft in the center.

  • The short baking time preserves the freshness of the ingredients, ensuring that the pizza remains light and flavorful.

    
    

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Conclusion

By adhering to these techniques, pizzaiolos achieve the authentic look, taste, and texture that define Neapolitan pizza.

Beyond these high level summary of the book, bakers should consider exploring further the following topics to master the art of pizza making.

• Advanced Dough Techniques: Explore various dough fermentation methods (e.g., different preferments, sourdough) to understand how they impact flavor and texture.

• Ingredient Science: Study the biochemical processes involved in fermentation and how different ingredients (e.g., types of flour, yeast varieties) affect the final product.

• Oven Dynamics: Investigate the design and mechanics of wood-fired ovens, including different wood types and their effects on flavor and heat distribution.

• Regional Variations: Explore the differences between Neapolitan pizza and other regional styles (e.g., Roman, Sicilian) to gain insights into various techniques and flavor profiles.

• Pizza as a Culinary Art: Dive into the cultural significance of pizza in Italian cuisine, including its history, regional variations, and role in contemporary culinary trends.

• Professional Techniques: Consider workshops or training sessions with experienced pizzaiolos to gain hands-on experience and refine skills in dough handling, stretching, and baking.

Remember to enjoy the process!